Tubular knitted fabric and article



Oct. 15, 1957 B. T. R. REYMEs-coLE ET AL 2,809,509'

TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC AND 'ARTICLE Original Filed May 25, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet l abcdefgh/ F/G/ j/mnopclrs zuv Illu IH! "i V *n l M Y /NI/ 70g; N f1:

Oct. 15, 1957 E. T. R. REYMEs-coLE ET A1. 2,809,509

TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE original Fiiea May 25, 1949 2 sheets-sheet 2 TUBULAR KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE Bernard Thornton Reymes Rayures-Cole, liurbage, near Hinckley, John Maurice Reyrnes Reymes-Cole, Hinckley, and David Norman Reymes Reymes-Cole, Melton Mowbray, England, assignors to The Kendall Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Original application May 2.5, 1949, Serial No. 95,336,

now Patent No. 2,703,970, dated March 15, 1955. Di-

vided and thsapplication .lune 4, 1954, Serial No. 434,554

` Claims. (Cl. 66-183) This invention concerns improvements in tubular knitted fabric and articles made thereof and has particular reference to seamless hose capable of being produced by means of the circular knitting machine and method disclosed in copending U. S. application Serial No. 95,336, tiled May 25, 1949, `and issued as Patent No. 2,703,970, datedMarch l5, 1955, from which the present application is divided and to which reference is directed for details of the machine and method referred to.

An object of the invention is to provide a fashioned seamless fabric and more particularly a fashioned seamless hose having an appearance not hitherto obtainable in such articles. A further object is to produce a fashioned seamless stocking simulating in appearance conventionally fully fashioned stockings. The conventional seamless `stocking suffers from the disadvantagethat since, the leg is knitted throughout upon a uniform number of needles, it is produced as a tube having a substantially uniform girth. It is common practice to minimize this disadvantage by what is known as stiffening, which consists in so adjusting the machine as knitting proceeds down the leg that the stitch length is progressivelyreduced with a resultant progressive diminution in the girth, and by subsequently accentuating the taper by drawing the stockings onto a board or form, having the shape of a leg and foot, and submitting it thereon to heat, moisture, and pressure with the result that the stocking is set to the shape of this board. Even so, the resultant stockingdoes not t so Well as does a fully fashioned stocking which article is the product of a Cottons Patent or other straight bar knitting machine. Fully fashioned stockings are initially knitted as a flat selvedged blank and the selvedge edges of the blank are subsequently seamed together; their excellent fit is in the main due to the fact that the number of Wales is decreased, as knitting proceeds down the leg, by a narrowing process which consists in the periodic inward transfer of a group of wales at each selvedge. The desirability has long been recognised, of fashioning the leg of a seamless stocking by varying the number of wales during its production by rotary knitting on` a circular knitting machine but heretofore attempts to this end have not met with commercial success, anda specific object of the present invention is the production of a fashioned, seamless stocking free from the major defects` of conventional seamless stockings and of a character adapted to meet public requirements.

The expression stocking" is employed herein not only to include a conventional stocking but also analogous articles such for example as socks and three-quarter hose, and further to include a blank for a stocking or the like, a blank being a partially completed stocking or the like at astage after it has been knitted onvthe` machine but at which it still requires seaming operations to be effected on it. h y

- The-invention Yresides in the features set forth in the Unite States arent appended claims. These features and the objects and advantages of the invention will appear more fully from the description of preferred embodiments of the invention shown by way of example in the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a diagram showing the structure of a portion of fashioning fabric according to this invention;

Figure 2 is a similar view illustrating the manner in which the introduction of additional Wales shapes or fashions the fabric, and illustrating the evening-out of the loops;

Figures 3, 4 and 5 show stockings produced by the exercise of this invention, while Figure 6 illustrates a modified form of stocking.

In Figure l the needle Wales are lettered a to v inclusive. In the group of wales f to p inclusive there are certain wales such as g, i, k, etc. (termed odd wales) which extend throughout the length of the fabric and other wales f, h, y, etc. (termed even Wales or fashioning wales) which only commence at intermediate stages in the production of the fabric. The loops of these even wales are somewhat longer than the loops of the odd wales. Likewise beyond the said group of wales the loops of the even wales b-d etc. are longer than the loops of the odd wales a--c etc.

The difference in loop size is such that the fabric produced Within the group of wales f-p before and after the introduction of the additional wales g, i, k, etc. is substantially visually undistinguishable from the fabric outside the group of wales.

As will readily be appreciated and is apparentfrom Fig. 2 the introduction of the additional wales causes the fabric to be shaped or fashioned, Figure 2 illustrating the factthat the loop size evens out. Moreover at the commencement of each introduced wale there is formed a small hole such holes being indicated at in Figure 2, and in the application of the invention to a ladys stocking these holes simulate the fashioning marks of a fully fashioned stocking.

It is here to be pointed out that in each course of the fabric a maximum of two kinds of fabric is produced. That is to say, fabric knitted on consecutive odd and even needles and consisting of short and long loops in alternation, and fabric knitted on the odd needles and consisting of loops all of one size.

The knitted fabric in its preferred form before boardingthus` consists of at least one pair of longitudinal-ly abutting non-fashioned and fashioned areas produced on a portion of the needle series having fashioning needles. These longitudinally abutting areas comprise wales extending the length of said abutting areas having nonselectedr loops of a predetermined short length which in the non-fashioned area are connected by ties of relatively great length. In the adjacent fashioned area fashioning Wales are introduced alternating with or closely spaced between said non-selected loop wales in the stead of said long ties and having selected loops` of greater length. 'Ihe selected and non-selected loops are chosen of such relative length to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially the same average length as they are withdrawn from the machine, an-d more particularly when the completed fabric is boarded. In each of the laterally adjacent non-fashioned areas at each side of the longitudinally adjacent areas above referred to, the fabric may be composed of wales all having loops of average length but preferably is composed of Wales having non-selected loops of short length extending through said non-fashioned area and other wales extending through said non-fashioned areas having selected loops of greater length. All of said selected and non-selected loops are chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded, so that the Ifabric in each of said fashioned and non-fashioned yareas is completely indistinguishable from the fabric of every other said area.

As hereinafter mentioned the fashioning iselfected by introducing fashioning needles and their sinkers into knitting activity, these fashioning needles being every second needle'in a group of needles. In the production of a stocking such as that shown at 101 in Figure 3 with a conventional heel 58 and toe 59, Vbecause Vthe fashioning needles are introduced progressively (working inwards from the outer ends of the group) the lines 100a produced by the fashioning marks 100A converge upwardly. On the oth'er'hand if the fashioning needles are introduced progressively, working outwards from the centreof the group, the fashioning marks 100a diverge upwardly as shown in the Vstocking 102, Figure 4.

In addition to the leg fashionings 10051 thigh fashionings 1l`0b may be producedinfansimilar manner..

Figure`5 showsat 103 a further stocking'which .in addition-to the calf `fashionings 100eA has footl fashingings 100C. In order `to produce these foot fashionings, fashioning needles are interspersed in a further group of` needles substantially diametricallyE opposed to the'previouslymentioned group. Indeed the 'two groups may constitute all the needles of the machine. In ymanufacture, since'the stocking is knittedtoe upwards the fash ioning needlesV for producing the foot fashionings 100e` are introduced at a time when, thefoot bottom. isVv knitted onevery second needle only, the intervening needlesbeing fashioning needles which .are` held inactiveand'are only introduced `when it is required to produce the leg fashionings 100e.

A further modified stocking is shown at 104 in Fig. 6. It Awill be seen that thetwo lines of leg fashionings A100:1 converge upwardly. Betweenthem there is a gap` 105jin the fabrichthe edges of which gap are. parallel to the two fashioning lines. Thus when .the edges of the fabric at opposite sides of the gap are seamed together the two` fashioning lines 4100er are brought parallel as in a fully fashioned stocking. The gap is preferably produced byV knitting the leg as a seamless tube and cutting the requisite fabric from it. Alternatively it may be produced while the leg is being knitted by initially withholding a blockof needles from knitting activity, thereby forming agap across which floating threads are laid, and introducing these needles progressively as knitting proceeds thereby to narrow vthe gap in known manner. The gapy may extend through the heel and along the foot bottom. The-fabricand the stocking as described herein may: be'niade Ona circular knitting machine conveniently of` a form Vas disclosed in thelspecification of, co-pending U. S. patent "application No. 95,336 and by the use of the. method described "in said specification. Briefly ythis machine Vis ofthe type. organized to knit tubular fabric by rotation and may also knit a pouch by oscillation and comprises a tricked cylinder equipped with latch needles and needle controlling instrumentsoperated vby appro priate cam means, andalso provided with cam controlled, loop forming sinkers. of needles Vwhich may betermed non-,fashioning needles there are interposed fashioning needles which are initially maintained inactive and are broughtsequentially into knitting activity to commence fresh wales for fashioning purposes. AsV during the knitting of `a nonffashioned'arear of 'fabric before the fashioningy needles are broughtinto knitting activity the non-fashioningneedles in the said' group are `more widelyspaced than active needles1 outsidethat `group, arrangements arel incorporated inthe machine wherebyrelative loop drawing movements. are

imp alitedto y.spaced ,active needles and associated .sinkere outsidetliegroup` whichfdiifer from" those impartedto-all othennon-fashioning needles and their sinkers in such a wayV that discrepancies.` loop size ,becoine' evenedf,outh

Closely spaced among a group.v

in the finished fabric, so that the fabric produced within the group of needles is substantially visually indistinguish'- able from that produced by needles outside the group. Similarly the fashioning needles, when active, and their sinkers have imparted to them relative loop drawing movements which differ from those imparted to the nonfashionin-g needles in the group for a like purpose;

As a result of the manner of knitting carried outby said machine as more fully described in co-pending application No. 95,336 the fabric produced in fashioned areas is caused to have a. loop structure substantially visually indistinguishable Vfrom that produced inl adjacent non-fashioning areas and as -a consequence a seams less hose is produced by rotary knitting havingcharacteristics simulating those o f a conventionalzfully fashioned hose produced by reciprocatory knitting on a at bar machine.

The differences in loop sizes produced as before indicated during the knitting of the fabric are substantially imperceptible when the fabric comes fromthe machine as there is some tendency for the loops to even .outafter leaving the needles. Subsequently the fabric is subjected to boarding and thereafter any differences inthe fabric structure are entirely imperceptible.

WeA claim:

l. Plain knitted tubular fabric having a fashioned area comprising wales having non-selectedloops of one length extending through the length of said area, and'other fashioning walls of lesser length closely spaced among saidrst mentioned wales having selected loops of greater length, said vselected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to render the fabric of the fash-` ioned area in portions including said fashioning wales substantially indistinguishable from portions not including saidfashioning wales.

2. An article of Vmanufacture comprisinga boarded tubularknitted fabric having a fashioned area comprising wales extending through thelength of said area vhav-. ing non-selected loops of one length and other fashioning wales of lesser length closely spaced among said first mentioned wales and havinglselected loops of greater length, said selected and non-selected loopsbeing chosen of such relative lengths whereby the fabric loops when boarded are substantially evened out and portions of the fabric area including said fashioning wales are rendered substantially indistinguishable from portions of said area not including said fashioning wales.

3'. A circularly knitted stocking Vhavingits leg portion fashioned by incorporation at closely spaced intervals within a selected group of non-fashioning wales formed of loops vof one length of fashioning wales formed of loops of a different length extending onlyfrom fashf ioninglocations, the relative lengths of loops inthe fashioning `and adjacent non-fashioning wales being such that the fabric throughout said group of wales is substantiallyvisuallyindistinguishable from that outside said group.

4. A circularly knitted stocking having at least its.` leg portion fashioned within a rearward group of wales consisting of non-selected loops of one length byincorporation of fashioning wales Iconsisting of. selected loops of a greater length at closely spaced intervals laterally of said group and extending only Vfrom fashioning marks lspaced longitudinally of said group, the relative lengths of the selected and non-selected loops in said group of wales beingV such that the fabric structure throughout the whole length of said group of wales is substantially` visually indistinguishable from the fabric Vstructure out-v side said group of wales.

5. An intermediate product which compriseslan unf boarded tubular -knitted fabric having;fashioned,areas, andA laterally adjacent non-fashioned areas@ comprising wales in each of said areas having selected loops clone,V hasta insluiting.fasgainsfwalesa;tl1e fas1rieaed.areas closely spaced among wales having non-selected loops of a different length from the selected loops, said loops being chosen of such relative lengths to render the fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

6. An intermediate product which comprises an unboarded tubular knitted fabric having fashioned areas and laterally adjacent non-fashioned areas composed of wales having non-selected loops of one length extending through each of said areas, and other wales having selected loops of greater length closely spaced among said non-selected loop wales in each of said areas including fashioning wales of lesser length in said fashioned areas, said selected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to render the fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas. s

7. An article of manufacture comprising a boarded tubular knitted `fabric having fashioned areas and laterally adjacent non-fashioned areas, each of said areas cornprising wales extending the length of said areas having non-selected loops of one length, and in said non-fash ioned areas other wales closely spaced therebetween having selected loops of a different length, and in said fashioned areas fashioning wales of shorter length having loops of said different length,` the selected and nonselected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even length when boarded and thereby to render the :fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguish* :able from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

8. An article of manufacture comprising a boarded tubular knitted fabric having fashioned areas and adjacent non-fashioned areas composed of wales having nonselected loops of one length extending through each of said lareas and other less extensive wales having selected loops of greater length provided for fashioning purposes and closely spaced yamong a group of the rst said nonselected loop wales, the vselected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded and thereby to render the fabric of the .fashioned areas substantially indistinguishtable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

9. A fashioned hose formed from boarded tubular knitted fabric having rearwardly disposed in the leg portion fashioned lareas and adjacent non-fashioned areas including wales having non-selected loops of one length extending through each of said areas and in said fashioned areas other less :extensive wales of ydifferent lengths provided for fashioning purposes having selected loops of a greater length and closely spaced among a group of the iirst said Wales, the selected and non-selected loops in said fashioned area being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded and thereby to render the fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

l0. An article of manufacture comprising a boarded tubular fabric having fashioning areas and laterally adjacent non-fashioning areas composed of non-selected loops of one length extending through each of said areas, and alternating therewith other wales having loops of greater length including fashioning wales of less extent in said fashioning tareas, the selected and non-selected loops in the respective Wales being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded and thereby to render the fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

ll. An intermediate product which com-prises an un boarded knitted fabric having longitudinally abutting non-fashioned and fashioned areas disposed laterally be- -said non-selected loop wales in the stead of said long ties,

said selected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to render the fabric of the fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable from the fabric of the non-fashioned areas.

12. An intermediate product which comprises an unboarded knitted fabric having longitudinally abutting non-fashioned and fashioned areas disposed laterally between non-fashioned areas, said longitudinally abutting areas comprising wales extending the length of said abutting areas having non-selected loops of short length and connecting ties of relatively great length, and fashioning wales having selected loops of greater length commencing within said fashioned areas and closely spaced between said non-selected loop wales in the stead of said long ties, the selected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative length to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substanti-ally even lengths when boarded and thereby to render the fabric in each of said areas indistinguishable from the fabric of every other area.

13. An intermediate fabric in accordance with claim 12 in which the longitudinally abutting non-fashioned land fashioned areas have adjacent thereto at least one laterally adjacent non-fashioned area composed of wales having non-selected loops of short length extending through said non-fashioned area, and other wales closely spaced therebetween having selected loops of greater length, all of said selected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded, and thereby to render the fabric in each of said fashioned and non-fashioned areas substantially indistinguishable.

14. A fashioned hose formed from boar-ded tubular knitted fabric having longitudinally Vabutting non-fashioned and fashioned areas disposed laterally between nonfashioned areas, said areas forming the entire gi-rth of the fabric, said longitudinally abutting `areas comprising wales extending the length of said abutting areas having nou-selected loops of short length and connecting ties of relatively greater length, and fashioning wales having selected loops of greater length commencing within said fashioned Kareas and closely spaced between said nonselected loop wales in the stead of said long ties, and each laterally adjacent non-fashioned area consisting of wales extending through said laterally adjacent nonfashioned area having non-selected loops of said short length, and other wales alternating therewith extending through said laterally adjacent non-fashioned area having selected loops of sai-d greater length, all of said selected and non-selected loops being chosen of such relative lengths to cause all of said loops to be reformed to substantially even lengths when boarded and thereby to render the fabric in each of said fashioned and nonfashioned areas completely indistinguishable.

15. An intermediate product which comprises an unboarded knitted fabric having longitudinally abutting non-fashioned and fashioned areas disposed laterally between non-.fashioned areas, said laterally disposed nonf'ashioned areas comprising wales extending the length thereof having loops of average even length, said longitudinally abutting areas comprising wales extending the length of said abutting areas having non-selected loops of short length and connecting ties of relatively great length, and fashioning wales having selected loops of greater length commencing within said fashioned areas n-the-,steadfvof said long; ties,v the selected: and nonselected? loops-ty beingl chosen ofV such` relativewlength to;

cause al1=-ofsaidloops to= bev refrmed; to; substantially evenvlengths whentboa'rded.

Band: s291329; 190,1

cole; Qc@ 18,1.' 19,32; 

